[hal-00759939] Runup estimations on a macrotidal sandy beach

This paper presents a methodological approach to calculate runup from the analysis of morphodynamic conditions in a macrotidal environment. The method is based on measurements of the elevation of high-tide deposits and on the analysis of morphological and hydrodynamic changes. A series of measurements has been carried out on the beach of Vougot (Brittany, France) under different wave conditions. This allowed to assess runup formula effectiveness in a macrotidal environment and to determine the best slope parameters to estimate runup. The results suggest that in macrotidal environments the slope of the active section of the upper beach should be used instead of the entire slope of the foreshore, the latter resulting in an underestimation of runup elevations when used in predictive equations from the literature. Results obtained with widely used equations are relatively well correlated with observed values (r² = 0.59). An analysis of the relationship between observed runup elevations and various variables has enabled the establishment of a runup estimation formula with a relatively good fit to the study site (r² = 0.88).



from HAL : Dernières publications http://ift.tt/1HHt2e5